When my friend Flo told me about the excursion she had planned, I expected just another abbey hidden in the French countryside, albeit fine destinations they have been. The Abbaye de Valmagne turned out to be something really special and she had something up her sleeve she knew she would appeal to me, it’s a winery! Located in the Languedoc region in the south west of France, in the area now known as Occitaine, you’ll find the Abbaye in the Villeveyrac region, north of Meze on the D5E8 and not far from Montpellier. The holy past of this 12th Century abbey was diverted in the 18th century when it became a working vineyard and remains to this day, though no longer tended by monks. It was on of the richest abbeys in the area In the 12th to 13th century but lost this prosperity during centuries of religious wars. Its reinvention as a winery ultimately saved this breathtaking monument and it continues to flourish. I first visited in 2008, it was famous for a classical music programme, mainly during the summer months, and its substantial banqueting facilities. It has diversified more recently and now brews beer and has a restaurant.
The approach to the Abbaye de Valmagne dissects 75 hectares of vines, before you even get to witness the majesty of the building, through iron gates and down the drive arched with plain trees. There is a Medieval Garden, a reconstruction of how the garden would have been in the middle ages with some preserved rare ancient species of both cooking and medicinal herbs remaining.
Opposite the Medieval Garden is a “Graps Conservatoire” which is a homage to all the vines in use in the making of wine. This lets you walk among the vines and, depending on the time of year of your visit, you can sample the varieties. This was my first experience of being able to pick and taste the grapes that made the wine and get up close and personal to the terroir. I was then able to buy the finished product in the shop. The circle was complete.
The very acceptable face of commercialism at Valmagne takes place is a magnificent vaulted room, with beautiful displays. You can taste the whole selection, aided by a friendly and knowledgeable host (who spoke English!). There are also lots of books (about wine, French cooking and other abbeys – all in French). You can buy tickets to enter the Abbaye here, well worth it.
Entering the Abbaye is a dramatic experience; gargantuan wooden doors then a musty smell belts you and your eyes struggle to adjust to the light. And then you have to refocus to take in the fact that there are floor to ceiling wooden wine vats lining the chapel. It is truly magnificent proportions. There is a central stage for the many concerts and recitals and I can imagine the acoustics are spine tingling.
The central cloister garden is absolutely breathtaking, built for the Cistercian Monks who were not allowed to leave the Abbaye. The fountain centre piece is beautiful and I was overwhelmed with peace and tranquillity as I walked around. There were rooms off this to explore too, not least one of the largest fireplaces I’ve ever seen and indeed sat in. There are two stone seats inside the mantel to sit. This massive room is used as a banqueting hall and is available to hire.
